Almost every guide we read about Malta told us that the Sunday morning fish market in Marsaxlokk (pronounced marsa-schlock – meaning Southern Port) shouldn’t be missed. The market closes at midday so we were up early and caught the bus into Valletta just as the direct TD10 bus to Marsaxlokk arrived.
We joined the long queue and a few tourists boarded the bus. A group of locals stood, blocking the entrance but didn’t attempt to board.
Madam asked one of them if they were waiting for that bus.
‘No, no,’ they said ‘It’s twice the price of the slow bus.’
€3 instead of €1.50. They should see how far €3 gets them in England I thought.
The market was vast. It followed the line of the harbour stretching probably half a mile. We joined the throngs wandering between the stalls. It soon became apparent that it was just the usual market stuff you find in every other market in Europe. Cheap clothes, batteries, toys and kitchen equipment. There was nothing we needed so we walked past the stalls, pushed and jostled by the crowds.
Madam did buy a bag of sea salt that promised “a taste of the Mediterranean.” I knew what salt tasted like but realised that I had no idea how the Mediterranean tasted.
I looked on the internets which may have been a bad idea.
A recent study found 58 different chemicals in samples taken of the surface water of the Mediterranean including pesticides, pharmaceuticals and artificial sweeteners. Among them the herbicide terbuthylazine, carbamazepine, naproxen and paracetamol, the antibiotic sulfamethoxazole, the antibacterial triclocarban and the two artificial sweeteners acesulfame and saccharin.
Throw in “record levels of pollution from micro-plastics threatening marine species and human health” according to a WWF report released last June.
I’m sure the salt will be free of all those nasty impurities but I may hide it at the back of a cupboard and see if it glows in the dark or anything.
We did find half a dozen fish stalls in the centre of the market but then realised we had no use for fresh fish. Whilst it might have been amusing to pack a few fresh sea-bass in our carry on plane luggage for a 3 hour flight, we might have been invited to take our future travel business elsewhere.
‘Will all passengers please check under their seats – there is a bad smell on the plane and we may have to divert to Brussels.’
The Belgian capital was, incidentally, voted the most boring city in Europe in a recent TripAdvisor poll.
But I digress.
The market got more crowded the further we walked. I’d had enough of being bumped by the crowds so I found a shaded doorway and leaned against the wall while Madam went to look at the rest. She was gone a long time. I was just about to send out a search party or set off a flare or something when she came back and said ‘More of the same. I’ve had enough of all these people. Get me out of here!’
We headed back to the restaurants near the centre and found a cafe called ill Bukkett with a vacant table outside. I was tempted to ask the waiter if it was pronounced “bouquet” but he looked rushed, so I just ordered a cappuccino and Madam a bitter lemon. The weather was much warmer today so we were happy to sit in the shade under the cafe umbrella for a while away from the jostling crowds. A bus full of nuns drove by, parting the crowds as it moved slowly along the harbour road.
Sitting at one of the nearby tables was an American family. I noticed a lot of American voices in Marsaxlokk for the first time in Malta. It’s probably not a destination that immediately pops up when planning a trip to Europe so I guess it surprised me to hear them now.
Malta, or indeed most European cities, with their winding streets and undisciplined passageways must drive Americans mad. You often find couples on a street corner, wearing bum bags and baseball caps, looking around baffled. They will have a camera around their neck and a windblown map in their hands. He will mutter ‘Gee Honey, why aren’t their roads straight and where are the street signs? Anyway where the heck are we?’
Americans aren’t allowed to say “hell “so they substitute “heck”.
She will look confused for a while then say something along the lines of ‘Umm, if it’s Saturday we are in Italy but if it’s Sunday, then it’s Malta.’
I later found out that Marsaxlokk was included in an excursion from one of the Mediterranean cruises aimed at the US market. I couldn’t find out from the internets how much the cruise passengers were paying for their bus trip around the island sights (you have to book the cruise before they tell you) but I bet it was a heck of a lot more than €1.50.
You can’t go to Marsaxlokk and not go on a boat trip around the harbour.
Well, you can obviously, but you shouldn’t.
These seem to be the main industry apart from the crowded restaurants and market stalls. Several boat owners were touting for business offering cheap trips just around the boats moored in the harbour, or to attractive bays further afield. One of the bays is even called Pretty Bay.
‘We should go on one of the boat trips’ said Madam.
I looked at the small wooden boats and out beyond the harbour at the rolling waves.
‘Well…’ I started to say but Madam took this as a yes and rushed to the nearest owner’s stall.
She asked the elderly boat owner the price. It was €10 for a single bay or €15 for all three.
‘Well, all three of course,’ she said.
I suspect it was the best news he had heard all day and he quickly cleared two folding seats.
‘My name is Tomas. Please sit here in the shade and make yourselves comfortable. It will just be a few minutes,’ he said.
A few minutes came and went without so much as a hint of a customer, then more minutes came along and disappeared into the distance like feathers in the wind.
Tomas was standing by the pavement waving his arms, desperately trying to drum up a few more passengers.
‘So, how long do we wait?’ I asked Madam, ‘there are several other boats offering the same tour.’
Tomas must have heard and before Madam could answer, he came rushing over and said ‘I’ve found another couple but they only want the €10 tour, so I will do all three bays for €10, okay?’
Like buses, boat passengers seem to come in threes and we ended up with nine people squashed into the tiny wooden boat. We were first on the boat and took the front bench seat. We thought we had the bench to ourselves until three young Brazilian women joined the boat. The most attractive woman squashed in alongside me and smiled.
‘Good idea, this boat trip’ I told Madam.
She didn’t reply.
‘Put on your life jackets please. Everybody must wear lifejackets… except me. I’ve been married 52 years and my wife won’t miss me,’ said Tomas.
We headed out from the harbour and the boat started bouncing up and down with the waves. Spray came over the front of the boat. I gripped the seat and wondered if anybody in the row behind me suffered from sea sickness.
One of the Brazilian women turned towards Tomas and asked ‘Where are we going?’
‘We are heading towards Libya’ Tomas replied with a straight face.
She looked like he had just told her she was being sold into white slavery.
They won’t get much for me, I thought.
Just as she was about to jump out of the boat and swim to shore, he turned the boat towards St Peter’s Pool, a beautiful natural inlet pool surrounded by blue deep waters and natural limestone rocks. It was packed with young sunbathers and swimmers diving from the rocks.
‘Can you drop us off here?’ Asked the woman sitting next to me.
‘Maybe on the way back,’ he replied with a look that said it would be breaking all the rules to return to the dock with three less passengers.
We continued to the other two bays, I don’t recollect the names but they were all beautiful with deep-blue water and limestone cliffs.
He did return to St Peter’s Pool to drop off the Brazilians.
‘You will have to walk back to the village,’ Tomas warned them as they clambered onto the steep rocks from the boat.
Madam looked at the group of young men standing watching with interest and the line of cars on the road above the pool and said ‘I don’t think they will have to walk back.’
She looked at me and in a sharp voice said, ‘sit back down!’ ‘You would have to walk and it’s a long way with your knees.’
‘That was brilliant!’ Said Madam as we left the boat, ‘well worth €10!’
And it was.